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The Trip of a Lifetime?
Before booking this trip, I spent a while searching the web to see what
to expect from a rafting trip on the Grand Canyon. Since all I could
find were write-ups saying 'this was outstanding' and I was a little
dissapointed with the trip, I thought I ought to write my own
review.
Note this page isn't finished yet - check back for updates"
Logistics
The trip started badly, with a 15 hour transfer to get to Las Vegas. For
some reason, we flew gatwick-newark and newark-vegas rather than
direct. Personally, I am starting to be more prepared to pay a
little bit extra for more conveninent flight times, since my spare
time is starting to become more valuable!
Phase one was a 3 day stay in Vegas, at the Sahara. Whilst this is an
older hotel, and at the far end of the strip, this wasn't a real
problem. If you buy a 10 ride pass for the monorail between a group
then it's fairly convenient!
The rafting part consisted of 6 full and 2 1/2 days on the river, 14
people on each of 2 37' rafts. We covered 230 miles by raft, and the
final 50 miles by jet-boat. This is the shorter of the options
offered by most rafting companies, the alternative being a 14 day
'row yourself' version.
The final phase was a 2 day stay in Vegas before heading back home.
A sim that really does save you money
abroad
Las Vegas
I hadn't expected to be at all interested by going to Las Vegas. A total
of 5 days sounded like quite a long time, and I think I probably
don't need to go back, but it wasn't as bad as I
expected. Highlights of the stay were a tour of all the
rollercoasters (including a day-pass for Speed in the Sahara),
Seeing the Blue Man Group at the Luxor (Sit at the front, otherwise
you'll miss the excitement!), and indoor skydiving (in a vertical
wind tunnel, with a 1000 h.p. fan at the bottom).
The last night of the trip coincided with the 100 year celebration of
Vegas, so we headed down to Freemont St. for live music, and a bit
of a party (and some gambling!)
The Rafting
The rafting part started at 5am with a long coach ride. I'm not
sure who provided the coach, but they were intending to bus us all
the way to the North Rim without a break. After some negotiation
from the Spice Coordinator, we stopped off for coffee and muffin at
a more civilised 8am.
This is by no strech of the imagination a white water rafting
trip. Whilst it is advisable to be sitting down almost all the time
on the raft, and a hand-hold is sometimes useful, the size of the
raft and the skill of the boatman ensures this is very much a
tourist trip. If you're looking for adventure and excitement,
you're looking in the wrong place!
Our trip was in May, and the first of the season. The water was
cold, there was rain on the first day, and most days there was a
strong wind blowing along the canyon. When the sun was out, and
out of the shade of the canyon walls, it did get very warm, but
predominantly, it was cold.
Despite being cold during the day, it was practical to sleep out
without a tent on most nights. As soon as the sun set, the wind
dropped.
In order to cover the distance, we were travelling up to 70 miles each
day, at maybe 10 mph. Breakfast was early, as soon as the sun was
up, and we were on the water by 7:30 most mornings. With a couple of
brief stops, and a lunch break, we usually reached the evening's
campsite by 4pm, just as the sun was setting. In practice, this
meant that there was little time during the day to actually get much
time off, and even sat on the raft there was constant interruption
from the rapids, and the drone of the engine!
Working out what to keep out for the day was difficult. We had an
ammo can each, accessible throught the day, and a day-bag per boat
to stow things in, which got wet, and was very full!
Food
We were promised endless quantities of gourmet food. Whilst the food was
all excelent, and freshly prepared, it was by no means
endless. There seemed to be a rush at mealtimes to pile one's plate
with enough food, because there was little chance of any being left
by the time it came to seconds. I was glad i'd spent 3 days eating
well in Vegas before the trip! We
managed to drink so much coffee (with breakfast and in the evening)
that there was a serous risk that we would run out of propane for
the burner. Maybe they're not used to a group of english people with
a significant proportion of engineeers, but i thought this was a bit
poor!
Sand
It gets everywhere. This is not normal sea sand, it is very very fine,
having been carried downstream by the river. About 5 cameras
suffered on the trip, some terminally. Plastic zip-loc bags seem to
help, not just to keep stuff dry, but to keep most of the sand
off.
Walking
I was expecting to do some walking up from the Canyon, up side canyons
etc. As it turned out, most of these off-river excursions were
fairly short, and whilst they were very pretty, we never got to a
position where we could see anything more than the inner
canyon. Althought the descriptions I'd read mentioned days where
time is spent off the river, there really isn't time to spend more
than a couple of hours each day off the river, and most of this was
spent playing in the wamer water fo the side canyons.
Weather
At times, it was very cold. Gloves (preferable neoprene), wet-boots and
trousers you can wear when they're wet are essential. Take enought
warm clothes that you can keep some dry. I only had one pair of long
trousers, and by the time we got off the raft in the evening, the
sun was setting.
Equipment
- Karabinas and string. Everything needs to be attached to you.
- Lightweight but warm wet-weather gear, especially trousers!
- Waterproof camera - also sand-proof!
- Walking boots - don't bother. Get a good pair of sandals to
let the sand out.
Remember that everyone else will have bought the same things from
the same shop - label stuff to avoid confusion!
The guides
The guides were great - they worked very long days, and tried their best
to give us as good a trip as they could.
Since going to the Grand Canyon, I've spent a few days driving along the
Verdon gorge on the south coast of
France. Although it might be
slightly less geologically
interesting, it is no less
impressive, and so much more
accessible. Just a 2 hour flight
to Nice, and a 2 hour drive from
there. Since the gorge is more
accessible, there is also plenty
of scope for more variety on a
trip there.